An Overview of Knife Blade Steel and Its Importance in Knife Performance

 

By Mark S Zehnle

Blade material is an extremely important aspect of any knife. And there are many types of steel used for knife blades. Some are relatively soft steels, which may dull fairly quickly but be easily re-sharpened. Other steels may be very hard, and so can be ground to an extremely sharp edge, but they may be susceptible to chipping or break easily if used inappropriately (for prying, for example).

In the world of knife steel, there is always a compromise between strength (ductility, or the ability to bend rather than snap), hardness (ability to withstand impact without deforming), edge-retention, and corrosion-resistance. Typically, as one characteristic increases, another will decrease.

For example, some of the strongest, toughest knives are only moderately sharp (comparatively speaking), and are very susceptible to rust. But with proper maintenance, they can offer a lifetime of hard use that would damage or destroy a knife made from a different kind of steel.

The choice of blade steel will impact the appropriate usage of the knife, its ease or difficulty of manufacture, and of course, its price. Let's have a brief look at some of the more popular choices of blade steel available.

A Brief Primer on Blade Steel

All steel is composed of iron, with some carbon added to it. Various grades and types of steels are created by adding other "alloying" elements to the mixture. "Stainless" steel, by definition, contains at least 13% chromium. "Non-Stainless" steels are also known as carbon steels or alloy steels.

Despite its name and late-night TV reputation, stainless steel is not stainless. Like all steel, it too will rust. The high chromium level in stainless helps to decrease corrosion, but cannot entirely prevent it. Only proper maintenance and handling will keep your knife completely rust free. (And basically, that simply means keeping it clean and dry, lightly oiling it from time to time, and not storing it in a sheath. Just that simple. Oh yeah: no dishwashers. Ever.)

Speaking very generally, there are three grades of steel used for knife blades: Good, Better and Best. Each type of steel has unique properties that make it more suitable to specific designs and applications. And of course, the choice of steel will impact the knife's price.

Good Blade Steel

Knives utilizing "Good" steel blades should be considered entry-level, and tend to be made from rust-resistant (not rust-free -- see above) stainless steel. Typically manufactured in Asia, these knives offer a fairly good economic value. These blades are usually 'softer' and therefore require more frequent sharpening to keep the edge performing well. But, because they are in fact 'softer,' re-sharpening is fairly easy. Some of the more popular stainless steel blade materials in this class are 420, 440A and 7Cr13MoV.

420 stainless steel has a little less carbon than 440A. Many knife makers use 420 because it's inexpensive and it resists corrosion fairly well. 420 steel sharpens easily and is found in both knives and tools.

The relative low-cost and high corrosion resistance of 440A stainless steel makes it ideal for kitchen-grade cutlery. While exhibiting similar characteristics to the better-grade AUS 6 steel, it is considerably less expensive to produce. 440A contains more carbon than 420, and is therefore a 'harder' steel. This allows better edge retention than a blade made from 420, but is more difficult to re-sharpen.

7Cr13MoV is a good blade steel, that has the alloying elements molybdenum (Mo) and vanadium (V) added to the matrix. Molybdenum adds strength, hardness and toughness to the steel, while also improving its machinability. Vanadium adds strength, wear-resistance and toughness. Vanadium also provides corrosion resistance, which is seen in the oxide coating on the blade.

Better Blade Steel

Better grade stainless steel blades contain a higher chromium (Cr) content than their entry-level counterparts. Since the amount of chromium is increased in the manufacturing process, these blades are more expensive. Chromium provides a greater edge holding capability, which means that the blade will require less frequent sharpening. These better grade knives sharpen reasonably easily, but it's important to employ proper sharpening techniques. The combination of great value and performance make these blades perfect for everyday use. Examples of these types of steel are AUS 6, AUS 8, 440C and 8Cr13MoV.

Both AUS 6 and AUS 8 are high-grade chromium Japanese steels, which provide a great balance of toughness, strength, edge retention and corrosion resistance, all at a moderate cost. These blade steels will measure a hardness of 56-58 on the Rockwell hardness scale (HRc). The carbon content of AUS 8 is close to 0.75%, which makes it very suitable as a blade steel. AUS 6 and AUS 8 are very popular with many knife manufacturers because they are both cost-effective and good-performing steels.

440C is a reasonably high-grade cutlery steel, similar to the AUS series. However, 440C contains more carbon, which increases the steel's hardness. Its toughness and relative low-cost make 440C stainless steel appealing to many knife manufacturers for their mid-range knife series.

The Chinese stainless steel 8Cr13MoV has a high performance-to-cost ratio. It is often compared to AUS 8. 8Cr13MoV is tempered to a hardness range of 56-58 on the Rockwell scale. This relatively high hardness can be attributed to the steel's higher molybdenum and vanadium content.

Best Blade Steel

Both the United States and Japan manufacture the best grade stainless steel for knife blades. Unfortunately, the higher chromium content in these blade steels comes at a premium price. The addition of elements such as vanadium and chromium offer superior edge sharpness and retention, as well as very high rust-resistance. These steels are utilized for more demanding tasks such as hunting and fishing, tactical self-defense, and military applications. A sampling of steels in this group would include CPM 154, CPM S30V, VG-10 and San-Mai steels.

American-made CPM 154 premium grade stainless steel was originated for tough industrial applications. This steel combines the three principal elements of carbon, chromium and molybdenum. CPM 154 provides excellent corrosion resistance with good toughness and edge quality. Well-renowned for its overall performance as a knife blade steel, CPM 154 touts a hardness of 57-58 on the Rockwell scale.

CPM S30V, a powder-made stainless steel, was developed by Crucible Metals Corporation (now Crucible Industries). Noted for its durability and corrosion resistance, it is considered to be one of the finest steels ever created. The chemistry of CPM S30V promotes the formation and balanced distribution of vanadium carbides throughout the steel. Vanadium carbides are harder, and thus provide better cutting edges than chromium carbides. Additionally, vanadium carbides provide a very refined grain in the steel which contributes to the sharpness and toughness of its edge.

VG-10 is a high-end Japanese steel, manufactured by Taekfu Special Steel. Its matrix includes vanadium, a large amount of chromium, molybdenum, manganese and cobalt. The vanadium contributes to wear-resistance (edge retention), and enhances the chromium's corrosion-resistance. The molybdenum adds additional hardness to the steel. The overall combination of elements results in a very tough, durable steel. As such, VG-10 is a well-renowned blade steel specially designed for high-quality cutlery. Blades made from VG-10 can be ground to a razor-sharp edge and still offer extreme durability without becoming brittle. Blade hardness for VG-10 is around 60 on the Rockwell hardness scale.

San-Mai (Japanese for "three layers") is a composite steel used in many of the high-end knives manufactured by Cold Steel. The blade's core is a layer of VG-1 steel, sandwiched between outer layers of 420J2 steel. San-Mai steel blades offer superior durability and excellent corrosion resistance, important to those who depend on their knives for hunting and fishing, as well as tactical and military applications.

Different Steels for Different Uses

As you can see, not all blade steels are equal. Some are harder than others, but will be more brittle or apt to chip, while some may be stronger or hold a better edge, but be more difficult to sharpen once they've become dull.

A quality designer or manufacturer will select the appropriate blade steel for a knife based on the properties of the steel, in concert with the intended application of the knife. Think about the difference between the chef's knife in your kitchen compared to a knife used for underwater diving, or a knife used in a combat or military application.

Knowing a little about the characteristics of different blade steels will help you make the right choice when it comes time to purchase your next knife.
 

Want to know more about knives and knife blade steel? Hop on over to Knight Owl Survival Store for a closer look into the fascinating alchemy involved in creating the diverse variety of steels used in modern knives and swords.

Are you hunting for a new knife? Be sure to check out our assortment of practical, tactical and survival knives. We feature world-class knives from the best manufacturers, designers and craftsmen: Columbia River, Cold Steel, SOG and more! Find the Knife that Fits Your Life!
 

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_S_Zehnle

8 Different Types of Knife Blades and Their Uses

By James Neste

Need a hunting knife but don't know which one is right for you? Buying a new blade can seem difficult with all of the different knife variations on the market. The decision process involves answering questions such as: "what type of knife should I buy? What are the different applications of all of the different blade designs, etc?" In this article, I hope to make the purchasing process simpler by describing some of the most common blade designs and their practical uses, for hunting knives on today's market.

Simple/Normal Blades

Characterized by the curving edge running parallel along a straight spine, a normal blade's two edges merge to form the tip of the knife.

With its curved design, force can be focused on a smaller area; which makes cutting easier and increases the effectiveness of the blade's edge. In terms of practical use, the simple blade can be used to chop as well as pick and slice; such as batoning wood or cutting rope. The single-edged blade design is best used for thrusting, this is due to a straight spine that does not catch material while penetrating. All in all, normal blades are ideal for heavier work, as the blade design provides a very strong and durable blade.

Trailing Point Blades

A trailing point blade has a large curved edge that curves upwards to end up above the spine.

The blade design provides a greater surface area along the edge of the blade (also referred to as the 'belly') due to the long blade curve. Consequently, this makes a trailing point blade ideal for slicing, slashing and making long, even cuts; which, is better suited for processing small game like fish. Because of its tip design, these blades are commonly found on fillet and skinning knives.

Drop Point Blades

Similar to a normal blade, a drop point blade has a convex curve that approaches the spine as the two edges merge to form the tip.

The blade's spine decreases towards the tip of the knife as it nears the end of the blade as the belly of the blade curves upwards to form the tip. The blade design is popular amongst a range of pocket and fixed blade knives; such as, the well- known Swiss Army Knife and many Chefs' knives. Drop point blades make completing simple tasks and chores a breeze; which, is why they are perfect for everyday carry (EDC).

Clip Point Blades

Similar to a simple/normal design, the clip point has a "mostly" straight spine.

The difference lies towards the tip of a clip point because the top half of the tip is "clipped off." This gives the back edge of the clip a false, concave edge; which, a majority of the time, can be sharpened to form a second edge. These types of knives are ideal for piercing or cutting in tight spots, as this blade design forms a much finer, needle-like tip. A classic example of a clip point blade is the iconic Bowie knife.

Spear Point Blades

A spear point design features a symmetrically shaped blade with its tip aligned along the centerline of blade axis.

Spear point blades are double-edged like a dagger or spear with the tip in the center. Due to its "spear tip" design, the point of the blade provides the greatest penetration capabilities. Playing on its strengths, the spear point design is used primarily as a thrusting weapon and is mainly used on tactical or fighting knives. These are not generally consider practical for everyday carry/use.

Spey Point Blades

Spey point blades have a straight spine that has a sharp, downward curve at the end of the blade and merges with the curved belly to form the point.

As a result, a slightly obtuse angle forms where the two edges meet at the tip; which makes the tip less likely to pierce accidentally when performing delicate work. The spey point design was originally used for spaying animals, where its name originates, but has become popular among today's hunters for skinning and dressing game.

Sheepsfoot Blades

A sheepsfoot blade is discernible by its completely straight edge.

Its spine is mostly straight until it slopes downwards to merge with the edge at the tip of the blade. As a result of this design, the blade itself does not actually have a "tip" and is primarily used for fine work such as woodcarving and electrical work. Historically, these blades were used for trimming hooves and found on ships for cutting rope, because the "no tip" design made it less likely to stab yourself while the ship was rocked by stormy seas. Sheepsfoot blades are not ideal for everyday use; however, they do make great instruments for teaching woodcarving and knife sharpening skills for those with less experienced hands.

Tanto Blades

Often times referred to as a chisel point blade, the tanto blade designs have both straight spine and belly edges that run parallel along the blade.

The belly nears the end of the blade and curves upwards at a sharp angle to merge with the spine to form the blade's tip. The tanto design is the Westerner's interpretation of the Japanese Kamasu Kissaki (Japanese Samuarai sword design). As a result of its design, the tanto blade produces a strong and durable tip while slightly decreasing its piercing effectiveness. The tanto blade is popular with tactical folding/fixed blade knives.

There are multiple blade variations in today's market, these are just eight of the most common blade designs you will find while trying to find your next hunting knife. With the many different application and uses, the type of blade depends on the user. I personally prefer to use a simple/normal blade design as my everyday carry; but I much rather take a trailing point blade with me when I go hunting or am out hiking. There are so many random scenarios you could run into in the outdoors, which is why it is wise to be prepared for any possibility. I recommend experimenting with different blade designs until you find what types work best for your specific needs.
 

For more information about knives and hunting in general check us out at http://www.YourHuntingKnifeSupply.com
 

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=James_Neste

The History of Swords - Medieval Swords & Renaissance Swords & Replica Swords

By Pietro R

A "sword" is a general term for an edged weapon longer than a "dagger". The distinction between a sword and a dagger is usually arbitrary, but it is normally understood that the sword stemmed from the dagger after technological advances allowed the blade to extend longer. The term "sword" encompasses many types of blades such as the sabre, rapier, scimitar and cutlass. The following article is a (very) brief history of swords in the Western World.

EARLY HISTORY

The earliest swords are said to be made of stone during the Neolithic period. These primitive weapons gave way to the first flint daggers made of copper. Primitive swords were first constructed in two parts: the blade and the handle, which were usually held together with rivets.

One of the greatest advances in the construction of swords and daggers alike came when the length of the blade was extended into the core of the handle (full-tang), thereby creating a sword from one piece of metal. The full-tang construction thus prevented the blade and hilt from separating during battle. As an aside, if you plan on buying a replica sword for a re-enactment or play, make sure that the sword has a "full-tang construction" to avoid embarrassing accidents during a sword fight.

During the classical period, swords were usually short, straight and broad - this style of sword is often referred to as the Imperial Gladiator Sword . The sword of choice by Roman warriors, the "gladius", clearly displayed such attributes. A longer Roman sword also existed (called the "spatha") but it wasn't as common as the gladius. Other styles of swords outside the Roman Empire were referred to as "ensis".

The Franks, who would later rule over modern-day France, preferred longer swords similar to the Roman spatha. Unlike the Roman spatha, however, the Frankish sword was constructed out of soft-iron which made it unreliable in combat situations.

By the end of the 6th century (after the fall of the Roman Empire), Viking raiders were quickly becoming the trend-setters in the sword department. The sword styles that Viking raiders brought with them were quickly assimilated and refurbished in continental Europe. In fact, the quintessential "knight sword" style is directly derived from the Viking swords.

MIDDLE AGES

By the 6th century, European swords had evolved from the broad Roman style to something heavier and more lethal. By now, we can distinguish 4 discernible components in mainstream European swords:

(1) The  pommel - usually a round piece of metal placed past the end of the hilt. The pommel served as a counterpoise to the blade for increased maneuverability.

(2) The grip/handle - this is where you would grab the sword from. The trend during the Early Period and into the Middle Ages was to increase the length of the handle to allow a double-handed grip. Later on during the Renaissance and the Modern period, handle length became increasing unimportant.

(3) The crossbar - the crossbar (sometimes referred to as "guard") was added between the handle and the blade for balance as well as for protection to the hand. Later on, as medieval armor and metal gauntlets became increasingly unpopular, the guard became more and more elaborate and protective to shield the vulnerable hand.

(4) The blade - straight, pointed, and double edged, the blade sometimes featured a central groove (sometimes called "blood groove") running down the middle for lightness and strength.

Something else the Scandinavian Vikings brought with them was the innovation of carbon steel. Whether by accident or not, Vikings started using carbon steel through a technique called "strip welding" in their making of swords. With strip welding, you take several bundles of metal, hammer them together, cut them, bend them, and hammer them again - thereby carbonizing the blade material and making it many times stronger.

All in all, medieval swords were swinging weapons to be used with tremendous force. The medieval swords used during the Middle Ages were an entirely offensive weapons, relying on their medieval shields and body armor to protect warriors. This is a significant contrast with the Renaissance rapier that will come some centuries later, with which finesse and tactic predominate over brute force.

RENAISSANCE SWORDS

As civilization started anew, medieval knights were starting to realize that their long, heavy swords were no good for close combat.  At the same time, improvements in commerce and trade also gave rise to high-quality sword craftsmanship. Cities such as Toledo, Spain and Solingen, Germany became famous for their high-caliber swords. Much like Germany now sells us BMWs and Mercedes', back then Germany exported their swords all over the known world.

During the first half of the 16th century, swords experienced rapid changes across Europe. The rapier, a long, narrow blade with an intricate guard design, soon grew in popularity. It became customary for gentlemen all over Europe to wear a rapier at all times, which inevitably increased the number of duels everywhere. The civilian sword of the 16th century, along with a higher incidence of dueling completely revolutionized the art of sword fighting during the Renaissance.

In medieval times you could probably survive by swinging and hacking with your huge sword, but if your opponent is a skilled swordsman, swinging your sword could leave you open to attack. Therefore, sword fighting evolved from brute force to strategic thrusts, parries and feints. By the 17th century, the civilian rapier had reduced in size even further and was now called the "smallsword". Surprisingly, one of the most prominent purposes of the smallsword was...fashion. Civilians would decorate their smallswords according to their taste, current fads, family tradition, etc...

Elsewhere, specialized swords had not disappeared. The broadsword was still widely used in German and Swiss armies, and the famous Scottish claymore was still used up until the 17th century. In most other militaries, the medieval sword had been replaced by the sword rapier, a heavier version of the civilian rapier. Around the time of the English Civil War, the sword rapier was in turn replaced by the "cavalry broadsword", which better protected the swordsman's knuckles by employing a basket guard design.

MODERN SWORD

Since the mid 1700's, the predominant type of sword was the sabre - a simple single-edge blade used primarily for cutting. By 1800, civilian smallswords had all but disappeared. It was rare to see anyone walking around with a sword by their side.

In the military world, the sword still held its rightful place. In particular, the naval cutlass (short, slightly curved blade with heavy guard) gained in notoriety for its usefulness in close quarters and while climbing. For as long as guns were still single-shot weapons, armies across the world still relied on their loyal swords - even during the US civil war, the cavalry would still charge with their sabres. However, the invention of repeating firearms, for obvious reasons, put a quick end to the sword's authority. There were some (very) brave European cavalrymen used sabres in WWI and WWII, but their efforts turned out to be ineffective anachronisms.

Nowadays, swords are mainly used for ceremonial purposes and as a mark of esteem or honor. Swords are still used in the militaries for the sake of tradition, but for the purpose of combat, swords are virtually extinct.

THE END OF SWORDS?

The word "end" used above has two different interpretations. On one hand, "end" means conclusion or termination. In that sense, yes - for all means and purposes swords are something of the past.
However, the alternative meaning of the word "end" provides us with additional insight. As you probably figured out already, "end" can also mean purpose. What is the purpose of swords if they belong in a museum, you ask? Collecting swords for fun isn't only a hobby, it is also a portal to our past! Swords were around for thousands of years, and their use changed the course of history countless times.

With this in mind, I invite you to check out my store at replicapower.com. You will find all sorts of replica swords, medieval swords, renaissance swords, and even some of the swords from your favorite movies (among other awesome movie props)!
 

The author of this article owns Replica Power, a store specializing in replica swords, fantasy swords and movie prop replicas. You can e-mail him with questions at info at replicapower.com
 

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Pietro_R

Gerber Bear Grylls Scout Drop Point Knife

Gerber's Bear Grylls' Scout Drop Point Knife™ is part of the Gerber / Bear Grylls Survival Series. This collaboration brings together over 70 years of knife and gear expertise with Bear's extensive outdoor survival and adventure experience to create one of a kind knives, tools and gear. Each item in the Survival Series is meticulously designed by Gerber and Bear to offer a multitude of uses in any environment. The Scout draws on Bear's experience as Chief UK Scout and figurehead to 28 million scouts worldwide. The Scout's half-serrated blade cuts through heavy-duty materials like rope, while an ergonomic, textured rubber handle provides a non-slip grip and maximum comfort. For added safety, the lockback feature locks the blade in place while it's open. Lightweight and portable, the Scout comes with a clip and is easy to carry in your pocket. Includes Bear Grylls' Priorities of Survival Pocket Guide.

 

Gerber 22-41122 STL 2.0, Fine Edge Knife

No thicker than three quarters stacked together and weighing only 1 ounce, the Gerber STL 2.0 (stands for Strong, Thin, and Light) folding knife rides comfortably in your pocket. The cut out in the 2.1-inch fine edge blade provides for easy one-handed opening, and the thin stainless steel handle features a lanyard hole and a unique frame lock for safety. The drop point blade is made from surgical-grade 7Cr17MoV stainless steel, and the handle has a titanium coating for improved corrosion resistance. The STL measures 5.1 inches long when open and 3 inches long when closed. Backed by a limited lifetime warranty.

Victorinox Swiss Army Huntsman Pocket Knife

Handy Swiss Army multitool for campers, hunters, and other outdoorsmen

Includes large blade, small blade, can opener, bottle opener, and wire stripper

Reamer with sewing eye, scissors, corkscrew, toothpick, hook, and tweezers

Small and large screwdrivers and wood saw; housed in classic red body

Measures 3-1/2 inches long; carries lifetime warranty

Tac Force TF-705 Series Assisted Opening Folding Knife

Tac Force Linerlock. 4-3/4" closed. 3-3/8" high carbon stainless assisted opening partially serrated drop point blade with thumb slot and extended tang with lashing hole. Block style grooved aluminum handles with drilled hole design and integrated bottle opener and glass breaker. Dual lanyard slot on spine. Stainless pocket clip with slot cutout design. Black blade. Red handles with "Fire Fighter" stamp. Black pocket clip.